Monday 23 June 2014

Quail Project Week Four: Hatching Quail Chicks


Week four: The Moment of Truth


The beginning of this week was very exciting - and frightening! 

Yes - they hatched! 

You might have noticed I don't know where to begin...

I'll start on the day they were meant to hatch...

There was not sign of hatching all morning. I was beginning to suspect that they weren't going to hatch at all... That Nutmeg and I had done something seriously wrong... but what? Then, at about ten to four, I checked under nutmeg to see how they were doing: and there it was, an egg with a tiny chip in the side, and I could hear quiet peeping noises! They were going to hatch! Nutmeg was 'growling' at me now, so I gently took my hand away. And waited. A little later on the eggs were at the same stage. I could only see four that had the little chips in. I then left them be until eight at night. 

WARNING: Next bit of the story might be a bit upsetting to some readers.

At this point I was getting a little worried about them. I actually lifted Nutmeg off the nest this time (before I had only got her to stand up so I could see a few of the eggs). And am I glad I lifted her off! 

I counted the eggs again and again. But there were only nine eggs. There should  have been ten. Maybe one had hatched? Excited and nervous, I checked through the hay and the box: no sign of either egg nor chick. So then, anxious and worried, I felt Nutmeg's crop with much trepidation. And felt as guilty as it is possible to feel. 

I have no idea what really happened, as I was not present at the time: had she just crushed it, and not realised what it was? Or had it started to hatch and then she ate it? I'm not sure, but I still feel guilty, and there was no chance I was risking it again. I had to remove her. 


The Texas A&M and the normal Coturnix
resting and drying off..
Credit: birdbrain99 (author)
In a panic, I discovered the four eggs with the chips in that I had noticed first (I could tell them apart because of their different sizes and colours) had really started to hatch. I needed a different heat source, quick!! In the end, a 40 watt light bulb clipped to the side of the box and a heat pad kept it warm enough. But Nutmeg was still wandering freely around the room, growling at me. She tried twice to get back into the box onto  the nest. Once the light bulb was rigged up, I picked her up and ran up to the chicken run with her, and dumped into  the run, much to the shock of the other hens! They obviously recognised her, and for the few seconds I stayed to check she was going to be OK there were a couple of small pecks and then everything was back to normal, as if she had never left! I hurtled back down to the eggs. One of the chicks was already nearly out, and another one on its way. The first to hatch was a standard brown Coturnix, the second was an entirely yellow chick: a Texas A & M.

Sadly, I got no good quality videos of them hatching.

The first two hatched at about 8:30 pm. I waited up to check that they were going to be OK and if the others were going to hatch. I had no idea at the time that I was going to be up until 2:30 am...

I waited and watched as the two chicks dried off, calling to each other constantly. Then, at 10:30 pm, I could hear peeping from the other two eggs. They finally hatched. They were both Golden Italians, but one was tiny. I was sure it wasn't going to make it, but it has, so far. I could feel movement from another of the eggs, but it never hatched.
The first two to hatch sleeping
Credit: birdbrain99 (author)




Friday 13 June 2014

Quail Project: Week Two & Three! Caring for Quail Eggs


Week Two

So the eggs arrived this week! They have been under Nutmeg for a week now and she was happy to accept them. When hatching quail under a broody it is always a good idea to have another option ready, in case the hen does not accept the eggs. However, this is unlikely if you know your hen well and she is very broody and a good mother. I know Nutmeg is a good broody because most of last summer she was trying to sit on eggs in some way or another! I do not know, however, how good she is as a mother. She has had no experience with chicks before so I hope it works out. It's a chance poultry keepers have to take when using an inexperienced broody and mother.


The quail eggs arrived through the post!
Credit: birdbrain99 (the author)

Caring for Quail Eggs

Caring for quail eggs is very simple and the hen does most of the work!

If you have received your eggs through the post (I did) it is good if you were able to see pictures of the breeder's runs or birds first. Once the eggs arrive, you must be home to receive them. Leave them to 'settle' for 24 hours before incubating them (or in this case putting them under your bantam.)
They should be left to settle 'pointy ends down'.
Leave your quail eggs to settle for 24 hours after they arrive.
Credit: birdbrain99 (the author)


If your hen is sitting on another infertile egg or something similar, this will need to be removed. Take it out while she is sitting on the nest, but without her noticing. Then give her the eggs. She may not take them straight away, so you might want to actually place them under her first, and then keep an eye on her. After a little while test to see if she has taken to them by placing one slightly out the nest. If she is very interested in it, or if she 'growls' when she sees you with it then she probably has taken to them. I call this the 'bonding stage' because she is 'bonding' with the eggs, and when she has she will roll the egg back underneath her and care for the eggs as if they are her own.

The nest should be quite deep, to prevent the small eggs from rolling out the nest.

Hatching quail eggs using an incubator

Quail eggs take 16 to 17 days to hatch, if the temperature and humidity is correct and the eggs are turned.

If you want to use an incubator, the temperature should be 37.5 degrees Celsius (99.5 Degrees Fahrenheit). The humidity should be between 50% to 60%, but this can be risen to 70% on the day of hatching.

The eggs should be turned at least 3 to 5 times a day until day 14, when they should be left. When turning, be careful with the eggs as they are very delicate, but be quick so that you can close the lid of the incubator again, to stop it from cooling. You will not need to turn the eggs if incubating under a broody hen as she will do this for you.


Week Three

There is not much to say for this week; Nutmeg is being taken off the nest every two days so she can dust bathe and stretch her legs. She is not taken off for more than 10 to 15 minutes a day, and I cover the eggs with a little hay when she's off to keep the heat in until she returns. 

I do have some bad news: two of the eggs have been crushed by her so far (one at the end of week two and one at the beginning of week three). Awful, I know, but I'm glad it wasn't later in their development when there were fully formed chicks inside. The second one she crushed she then ate... but at least she had a good meal that day...

Thursday 5 June 2014

Quail project: Week One!

A few weeks ago I decided to try something new for me: to raise quail under a broody hen! I decided to write a weekly report of the project, and post it on the blog if it worked out. I suppose you could say this is a new turning point for the blog: from now on it will be about quail also (although still mostly about chickens)! There are going to be at least 7 weeks in total, and I will be publishing a post a week so you can follow the project! Here is the report from week one:

Week One

So Nutmeg has gone broody again (see the post about broodies)!

I finally decided to hatch something... but it couldn't be chickens because I haven't got the space for cockerels.. or more hens for that matter (I currently have 6).

Quail?

I have been wanting to keep quail for years, I just never got round to it. I think they would be great birds for the garden, costing less to keep than chickens but laying nearly as many eggs (although the eggs are considerably smaller!). I did some research and discovered it really was possible to hatch Coturnix Quail under a bantam hen. After a lot of research, planning and thought, I decided to go for it!

The only species of quail I know you can hatch under bantam hens are Coturnix or Japanese Quail. These quail have been selectively bred into many different colours. These colours include:


  • Standard (the wild, brown colour)
  • Red Coturnix 
  • Black Tuxedo
  • Red Tuxedo
  • Tibetan
  • Texas A & M
  • English
  • Golden
  • Italian

Settling my broody

Quail should not be kept in the same pen as chickens because quail are so small and delicate, so Nutmeg could not hatch and raise them in the normal coop. I decided to move her to a separate place where the quail could be safe from the other hens. In the end, I decided to use a cardboard box inside! I wasn't sure if she would take to this, so I gave her a week to settle in, and to check she was happy with it before ordering the eggs. It's now the end of the week and she is more broody than ever before! The eggs are meant to arrive tomorrow. Her broody box contains a thick layer of equinola bedding, and in one corner a big pile of hay, where she has made her nest. She is currently sitting on four infertile chicken eggs, and these will be changed when the quail eggs arrive. If you've got your hen outside I do not recommend using hay because this can get damp and can harbour dangerous fungi and bacteria. However, because she is indoors and it is dry, hay is fine.

Nutmeg sitting on her nest.
Credit: birdbrain99 (author)

It's extra important at this time to be sure she has no lice or mites. A good dusting of a suitable mite powder should do the trick, but also sprinkle some in the dust bath so she will do it herself.  Mites and lice can tell when a hen has gone into broody condition, and they will prepare so that they are ready to infest the chicks when they hatch. Mites on a chick can be fatal, so really make sure the mother has absolutely no mites or lice!
Nutmeg in her broody box.
Credit: birdbrain99 (author)


Advice on how to care for quail eggs is different from how to care for chicken eggs, so I will write about that next week. The advice about caring for chicken eggs on the posts about broody hens and eggs may not be relevant to quail eggs.

Friday 9 May 2014

Information: Useful facts about chicken eggs


My two new hybrids have just started laying. It's reminded me how amazing eggs are, but how little most people (including myself) know about them.
For example, how does a hen actually produce an egg and how does an embryo inside the egg develop into a chick, at what age does a hen start laying and what is the best way to store eggs?

Here are the answers to some frequently asked questions:

When does a hen start to lay? 
 A hen usually starts producing eggs at about 19 to 24 weeks. This is the time they reach sexual maturity. The actual age an individual hen starts laying varies due to many factors, such as diet, stress, breed, environment and light.

What is each stage in a hen's development after hatching called?
  There are many opinions and definitions on how old a female chicken can be when she is a chick, pullet or hen. However, this is the most common view:

  • Before they start to lay they are a pullet (a female chick is also a pullet, but most people only call them pullets when they are sure they are females because with most breeds it is impossible to identify the sex of the chick when they first hatch, unless you have sex-linked chickens *post about sex-linked chickens and hybrids coming shortly*, but basically with sex-linked birds the male and female chicks are different colours.) 
  •  At about 18 - 24 weeks they are known as Point of Lay Pullets (POL), and this is usually the age that breeders and suppliers sell their adult birds.
  • After they have started producing eggs (they have reached sexual maturity) they are usually known as a hen. However, opinions, of course, differ greatly and some say that they are not a hen until they are a year old. Or, they are not a hen until they have been laying for 4 or more months, or when they go through their first moult.
How often does a hen lay?
A hen can only produce an egg every 25 hours, so about one a day, but it depends on the breed and age of the bird. Usually hens are most productive in their first 2 years of life, and then their egg productivity starts to decrease. Hybrids lay more than Pure Breeds. Some hybrids, such as the Gingernut Ranger or Black Rock, can lay up to 300 eggs a year. See this article for more information on the best egg-laying pure breeds.


Do you need a cockerel for the hens to lay?
No! It is widely believed that hens will only lay eggs if there is a cockerel present. However, hens will lay even if they have never even seen a cockerel before. A cock/rooster is only needed if you want fertile eggs to hatch, as eggs will not hatch if they are not fertile.

How is the egg formed inside the hen?
Diagram showing the position of the different parts of an egg.
Credit: Birdbrain99 (author)
When a female chick hatches, she has thousands of very small ova, which are stored in the ovary. She releases these into the oviduct when she reaches sexual maturity. An ovum is an undeveloped yolk; the albumen (white), the membrane and the shell are added as the yolk travels through the reproductive system. This whole process takes about 25 hours. If the hen has sperm (from the cock bird - she will only have sperm if she mates with a cock/rooster) is added to the yolk just before the albumen encases the yolk. The egg passes out of the hen through the cloaca, or vent. This is also used for excretion, and both the large intestine and the oviduct lead to the cloaca but as the egg is released, the hole to the large intestine closes up so that the egg is not contaminated by faeces. 


How long does an egg take to hatch?
Chicken eggs normally take 21 days to hatch, but various factors influence the hatch date, such as temperature and humidity. The eggs can be stored for up to 7 days before incubating.

What temperature and humidity do the eggs need to hatch?
It needs to be about 37.5 degrees Celsius (99.5 Fahrenheit). There are many different opinions on humidity, but the accepted idea is 40-50% from day 1 to day 18, and then 60-80% day 18 to hatching (usually day 21).

How can you be sure the eggs are fertile?
The eggs will only be fertile if the hen that laid them has been mated by a cock. It is unlikely that all of the eggs will be fertile. Cocks have 'favourite' hens, and may not bother mating with the others, or sometimes the hen doesn't get caught. However, a cock can fertile many eggs with one mating, and the sperm will stay in the system for up to three weeks. To check if an egg is fertile, you can use a technique called "candling". This only works after the egg has been in the incubator (or under the broody hen) for about 10 days. It is done by shining a bright light, such as a torch light, through the eggs. If the egg is fertile, blood vessels leading from a dark central spot (the embryo) should be visible. If the eggs is infertile or has died the eggs should be completely clear when you chine the light through it. If you are sure it is infertile, discard the egg, but if you are unsure, leave it in in case it is fertile. It is best to get hatching eggs from a recommended breeder or supplier nearby, so that you can check their stock and the environment the hens that the eggs are from are healthy. It also means the eggs have less of a distance to travel, as you can collect them. If not, you can order eggs online and have them delivered through the post, but the eggs may not be so fertile, or one might break during the journey.

A selection of different coloured and sized eggs.
Credit: Birdbrain99 (author)
How many hours of daylight does a hen need to lay?
She needs at least 14 hours of light a day for maximum egg production. However you can supplement the natural light in winter with artificial light in the coop.

Do hens ever lay misshapen eggs?
Yes. If this is a very infrequent occurrence, it isn't anything to worry about. However, if it is a regular occurrence, make sure your hens have plenty of calcium (in the form of oyster shell grit and supplements) and a good diet of layer's pellets. Young POL pullets often lay small, strange eggs at first, before they get into a routine.

Where do hens lay?
Most coops (see this post) have nest boxes attached. Most hens will lay in the darkest, safest spot they can find, but you can encourage hens to lay in the nest box by placing a dummy egg or a golf ball there at first as they like to lay where other hens have laid. If you have hens free-ranging they may find another place to lay outside, but most hens are happy to come back to the nest box.

Do I need to keep eggs in the fridge or what other ways to store them are there?
Many people keep eggs in the refrigerator, but this is unnecessary.  In a fridge, eggs in fact deteriorate faster because of the constant change in temperature when you open and close the door. Eggs can be stored at room temperature in an egg box or you can use an egg ramp. Egg ramps are good because you use the eggs at the bottom of the ramp first, and place the new ones at the top so you are not eating very fresh eggs and leaving the older ones to rot. Eggs can be stored for a very long time in a cool cellar or basement, but eggs stored at room temperature can be kept for for weeks. If you are unsure whether an egg is still fresh, you can place it in a dish of water. If it sinks to the bottom, it is still fine. If it floats or is on it's end, it is bad.
Never wash eggs before storage because this removes the protective outer layer on the eggshell and therefore bacteria can enter the egg and cause you to be ill. If you do get a soiled egg, use a piece of kitchen towel to remove the dirt as much as possible, and then when you come to eat it you can give it a quick rinse as long as you use it straight after. 
Many of the guidelines as to how long eggs last is about shop bought eggs, but shop bought eggs have already been stored for days or even weeks before they are sold!
Once you have refrigerated an egg, do not then store it at room temperature as the protective coating will have already been removed by being in the fridge.

Tuesday 25 March 2014

Stories: Dealing with Death... No, I'm really not sure how!


I haven't written in a very long time, I'm sorry. But what can I say? It has been a very traumatic few months, as my characterful, cheeky, lovely Bonnie died. But that's not it. My beautiful Birdie got a throat tumour and had to be put down by the vet because food was unable to pass through. It takes a while before I find I can write about these things because I'm very close to all my chickens... Oh dear I'm crying again! I wish I could write a post about how to deal with a chicken's death, but I can't because I don't know how! I think you just have to remember what an amazing life they had with you. That you did everything you could for them. That you loved them, that they were able to be chickens and that their life was wonderful.

I feel so honoured to have been a part of their lives, and I will never forget them as long as I live.

Don't ever make the mistake of detaching yourself from your hens, even if they are egg-layers or for meat: you will regret it. You'll wish you'd known more about them; really discovered who they were. Just accept that when they do pass away you will be sad, and remember you will get through it, like I've done. Don't be ashamed to cry over a chicken: they are one of the most amazing, funny, quirky, beautiful animals on Earth. Love them while they're here... even if you eat them in the end!

Here are some photos of them to remember them by, but sadly these two hens are the two I don't have so many pictures of. See this post to see a film of them all too.







Bonnie was very patient when it came to bath-time!
Credit: birdbrain99 (Author)


Fast asleep!
Credit: birdbrain99 (Author)