New Blog Page: Check it out!

I've just written and published a new page on my hens. I thought it might help people keep track of my hens and if I mention one of them in a post you can refer to these pages, so please check it out!

The page is named "The Hens" and can be found next to "Useful Resources and Links" in the menu bar at the top of my blog:) achickenkeepersblog.blogspot.co.uk/p/the-hens

I have a long list of posts I want to write, and they will be coming soon... when I have the time to write them! I am also going to write another page on my quail, similar to the one on my hens.

Chickens: Best Meat-producing and Utility Breeds

After a request, I have put together a list of all the best chicken breeds for meat production. As a bonus, many are also great egg-layers (see my post Chickens: Top 5 Best Egg-Laying Pure Breeds). Utility breeds are breeds that produce both good numbers of eggs and good meat. Broilers are breeds bred specifically for meat-production, also known as Table Birds.

Pure Breeds

Utility Light Sussex is best known for its dual-purpose meat and egg production.
Credit: Captain Vindaloo. Permission: Public Domain

Utility Light Sussex

The Light Sussex is a British breed, ideal for both the table and for eggs. There are many colours available, but the utility light sussex is the best known for its meat and eggs.

Weight: Large male: 9 lb (4.1 kg), large female: 7 lb (3.2 kg)

Personality: Docile, friendly and very easy to tame, these are a really amazing breed when it comes to personality.

Care: These birds are great for the beginner chicken keeper as they are easy to keep and require no special care. They are a hardy breed great for cooler climates.

Dorking

The Dorking is a very old breed, thought to have either been introduced to Britain by the Romans or to be from pre-Roman times. The Dorking is a fair layer and has very tasty meat. However, it is harder to source a stock than some of the more common breeds.

Weight:  Large male: 10 - 14 lb (4.6 - 6.4 kg) Large female: 8 - 10 lb (3.6 - 4.6 kg)

Personality: The Dorking is a docile breed that is easy to handle and tame.

Care: Despite all its qualities, the Dorking needs plenty of space to scratch, explore and run around, and is not too happy in confinement.

Cuckoo Maran free-ranging with a Rhode Island Red.
Credit: Captain Vindaloo. Permission:  Public Domain

Marans

Marans are known for their fleshy meat and beautiful brown eggs. They have a traditional yet interesting look, especially the Cuckoo variety.

Weight: Male: 8 lb (3.6 kg), female: 7 lb ( 3.2 kg)

Personality: Marans are very active birds, and need plenty to do. They do not appreciate being handled and can be a little temperamental as a breed, but it depends on the individual and strain.

Care: The Maran will not tolerate confinement and needs free-range or close to free-range conditions, otherwise it is a hardy breed with no specific problems.

The Barred Plymouth Rock is a striking breed, 
happy to free-range.
Credit: smerikal. Permission: CC-BY-SA-2.0

Plymouth Rock

The Plymouth Rock is a very popular breed in both the UK and America. It was introduced to Britain from America. It is not an efficient eater but matures early.

Weight: Male: 7 1/2 lb (3.4 kg), female: 6 1/2 lb (2.95 kg)

Personality: the Plymouth Rock is a friendly, calm breed that is happy to be handled.

Care: The Plymouth Rock will tolerate relative confinement but is equally happy to free-range. It is an ideal breed for the beginner.

Rhode Island Red

The Rhode Island Red is arguably one of the most well-known and best-loved breeds in America and the UK. They were first developed for their size and egg-laying abilities and remain to this day a very productive chicken.

Rhode Island Reds are great backyard birds.
Credit: U&I (Useful & Interesting Blog) Permission: Author's permission

Weight: Male: 8 1/2 lb (3.9 kg), female: 6 1/2 lb (2.95 kg)

Personality: RIRs (as they are sometimes known) are a great dual-purpose breed and also make great pets as they have a calm and docile nature. They are also inquisitive but will be happy in free-range or confined conditions (although do not overcrowd)

Care: They do well in most situations and are ideal beginner birds. They mature relatively early and are a perfect breed for the backyard or garden or for their meat and eggs. 

Australorp

The Ausralorp is a well-fleshed, white-skinned, excellent table bird, but is also a wonderful layer of about 200 light-brown eggs a year, as well as being a good exhibition bird.

Austalorp mature relatively quickly and are great table birds.
Credit: Jason buildakicker Permission: CC BY-NC-SA 2.0 

Weight: Male: 8 1/2 - 10 lb (3.8 - 4.6 kg), female: 6 1/2 - 8 lb (2.95 - 3.6 kg)

Personality: The Australorp is a handsome, quiet breed well-known for its calm temperament. It is also a good exhibition breed.

Care: The Ausralorp requires no specific care, tolerating confinement well and maturing early, as well as being an economical eater. 

Hybrids

There are many great hybrid breeds that are good table birds. These include Hubbard-ISA, Sasso, Cobb 500, Ross broilers, Cotswold Whites as well as many others. Unlike pure breeds, hybrids have many different names and are frequently allocated numbers instead of names. Hybrids are economical eaters and produce good meat and large quantities of eggs.

Apology

I'm afraid I haven't been able to keep up with my blog these last few months, but I have noticed it is still getting plenty of page views and can still be found at the top of many google searches, which is always encouraging. I feel this blog has gone a long way: more than I expected it to. I am very glad I have been able to help so many people!

I am afraid, however, that I will not be able to post as regularly as I have done previously, which is a great shame. However, I will post occasionally, so do not lose hope in me!

If you leave a comment on a post I will get back to you as soon as possible.

Quail Project Week Four: Hatching Quail Chicks

Week four: The Moment of Truth

The beginning of this week was very exciting - and frightening! 

Yes - they hatched! 

You might have noticed I don't know where to begin...

I'll start on the day they were meant to hatch...

There was not sign of hatching all morning. I was beginning to suspect that they weren't going to hatch at all... That Nutmeg and I had done something seriously wrong... but what? Then, at about ten to four, I checked under nutmeg to see how they were doing: and there it was, an egg with a tiny chip in the side, and I could hear quiet peeping noises! They were going to hatch! Nutmeg was 'growling' at me now, so I gently took my hand away. And waited. A little later on the eggs were at the same stage. I could only see four that had the little chips in. I then left them be until eight at night. 

WARNING: Next bit of the story might be a bit upsetting to some readers.

At this point I was getting a little worried about them. I actually lifted Nutmeg off the nest this time (before I had only got her to stand up so I could see a few of the eggs). And am I glad I lifted her off! 

I counted the eggs again and again. But there were only nine eggs. There should  have been ten. Maybe one had hatched? Excited and nervous, I checked through the hay and the box: no sign of either egg nor chick. So then, anxious and worried, I felt Nutmeg's crop with much trepidation. And felt as guilty as it is possible to feel. 

I have no idea what really happened, as I was not present at the time: had she just crushed it, and not realised what it was? Or had it started to hatch and then she ate it? I'm not sure, but I still feel guilty, and there was no chance I was risking it again. I had to remove her. 

The Texas A&M and the normal Coturnix
resting and drying off..
Credit: birdbrain99 (author)

In a panic, I discovered the four eggs with the chips in that I had noticed first (I could tell them apart because of their different sizes and colours) had really started to hatch. I needed a different heat source, quick!! In the end, a 40 watt light bulb clipped to the side of the box and a heat pad kept it warm enough. But Nutmeg was still wandering freely around the room, growling at me. She tried twice to get back into the box onto  the nest. Once the light bulb was rigged up, I picked her up and ran up to the chicken run with her, and dumped into  the run, much to the shock of the other hens! They obviously recognised her, and for the few seconds I stayed to check she was going to be OK there were a couple of small pecks and then everything was back to normal, as if she had never left! I hurtled back down to the eggs. One of the chicks was already nearly out, and another one on its way. The first to hatch was a standard brown Coturnix, the second was an entirely yellow chick: a Texas A & M.

Sadly, I got no good quality videos of them hatching.

The first two hatched at about 8:30 pm. I waited up to check that they were going to be OK and if the others were going to hatch. I had no idea at the time that I was going to be up until 2:30 am...

I waited and watched as the two chicks dried off, calling to each other constantly. Then, at 10:30 pm, I could hear peeping from the other two eggs. They finally hatched. They were both Golden Italians, but one was tiny. I was sure it wasn't going to make it, but it has, so far. I could feel movement from another of the eggs, but it never hatched.

The first two to hatch sleeping
Credit: birdbrain99 (author)

Quail Project: Week Two & Three! Caring for Quail Eggs

Week Two

So the eggs arrived this week! They have been under Nutmeg for a week now and she was happy to accept them. When hatching quail under a broody it is always a good idea to have another option ready, in case the hen does not accept the eggs. However, this is unlikely if you know your hen well and she is very broody and a good mother. I know Nutmeg is a good broody because most of last summer she was trying to sit on eggs in some way or another! I do not know, however, how good she is as a mother. She has had no experience with chicks before so I hope it works out. It's a chance poultry keepers have to take when using an inexperienced broody and mother.

The quail eggs arrived through the post!
Credit: birdbrain99 (the author)

Caring for Quail Eggs

Caring for quail eggs is very simple and the hen does most of the work!

If you have received your eggs through the post (I did) it is good if you were able to see pictures of the breeder's runs or birds first. Once the eggs arrive, you must be home to receive them. Leave them to 'settle' for 24 hours before incubating them (or in this case putting them under your bantam.)
They should be left to settle 'pointy ends down'.

Leave your quail eggs to settle for 24 hours after they arrive.
Credit: birdbrain99 (the author)

If your hen is sitting on another infertile egg or something similar, this will need to be removed. Take it out while she is sitting on the nest, but without her noticing. Then give her the eggs. She may not take them straight away, so you might want to actually place them under her first, and then keep an eye on her. After a little while test to see if she has taken to them by placing one slightly out the nest. If she is very interested in it, or if she 'growls' when she sees you with it then she probably has taken to them. I call this the 'bonding stage' because she is 'bonding' with the eggs, and when she has she will roll the egg back underneath her and care for the eggs as if they are her own.

The nest should be quite deep, to prevent the small eggs from rolling out the nest.

Hatching quail eggs using an incubator

Quail eggs take 16 to 17 days to hatch, if the temperature and humidity is correct and the eggs are turned.

If you want to use an incubator, the temperature should be 37.5 degrees Celsius (99.5 Degrees Fahrenheit). The humidity should be between 50% to 60%, but this can be risen to 70% on the day of hatching.

The eggs should be turned at least 3 to 5 times a day until day 14, when they should be left. When turning, be careful with the eggs as they are very delicate, but be quick so that you can close the lid of the incubator again, to stop it from cooling. You will not need to turn the eggs if incubating under a broody hen as she will do this for you.

Week Three

There is not much to say for this week; Nutmeg is being taken off the nest every two days so she can dust bathe and stretch her legs. She is not taken off for more than 10 to 15 minutes a day, and I cover the eggs with a little hay when she's off to keep the heat in until she returns. 

I do have some bad news: two of the eggs have been crushed by her so far (one at the end of week two and one at the beginning of week three). Awful, I know, but I'm glad it wasn't later in their development when there were fully formed chicks inside. The second one she crushed she then ate... but at least she had a good meal that day...

Quail project: Week One!

A few weeks ago I decided to try something new for me: to raise quail under a broody hen! I decided to write a weekly report of the project, and post it on the blog if it worked out. I suppose you could say this is a new turning point for the blog: from now on it will be about quail also (although still mostly about chickens)! There are going to be at least 7 weeks in total, and I will be publishing a post a week so you can follow the project! Here is the report from week one:

Week One

So Nutmeg has gone broody again (see the post about broodies)!

I finally decided to hatch something... but it couldn't be chickens because I haven't got the space for cockerels.. or more hens for that matter (I currently have 6).

Quail?

I have been wanting to keep quail for years, I just never got round to it. I think they would be great birds for the garden, costing less to keep than chickens but laying nearly as many eggs (although the eggs are considerably smaller!). I did some research and discovered it really was possible to hatch Coturnix Quail under a bantam hen. After a lot of research, planning and thought, I decided to go for it!

The only species of quail I know you can hatch under bantam hens are Coturnix or Japanese Quail. These quail have been selectively bred into many different colours. These colours include:

• Standard (the wild, brown colour)
• Red Coturnix 
• Black Tuxedo
• Red Tuxedo
• Tibetan
• Texas A & M
• English
• Golden
• Italian

Settling my broody

Quail should not be kept in the same pen as chickens because quail are so small and delicate, so Nutmeg could not hatch and raise them in the normal coop. I decided to move her to a separate place where the quail could be safe from the other hens. In the end, I decided to use a cardboard box inside! I wasn't sure if she would take to this, so I gave her a week to settle in, and to check she was happy with it before ordering the eggs. It's now the end of the week and she is more broody than ever before! The eggs are meant to arrive tomorrow. Her broody box contains a thick layer of equinola bedding, and in one corner a big pile of hay, where she has made her nest. She is currently sitting on four infertile chicken eggs, and these will be changed when the quail eggs arrive. If you've got your hen outside I do not recommend using hay because this can get damp and can harbour dangerous fungi and bacteria. However, because she is indoors and it is dry, hay is fine.

Nutmeg sitting on her nest.
Credit: birdbrain99 (author)

It's extra important at this time to be sure she has no lice or mites. A good dusting of a suitable mite powder should do the trick, but also sprinkle some in the dust bath so she will do it herself.  Mites and lice can tell when a hen has gone into broody condition, and they will prepare so that they are ready to infest the chicks when they hatch. Mites on a chick can be fatal, so really make sure the mother has absolutely no mites or lice!

Nutmeg in her broody box.
Credit: birdbrain99 (author)

Advice on how to care for quail eggs is different from how to care for chicken eggs, so I will write about that next week. The advice about caring for chicken eggs on the posts about broody hens and eggs may not be relevant to quail eggs.

Information: Useful facts about chicken eggs

My two new hybrids have just started laying. It's reminded me how amazing eggs are, but how little most people (including myself) know about them.
For example, how does a hen actually produce an egg and how does an embryo inside the egg develop into a chick, at what age does a hen start laying and what is the best way to store eggs?

Here are the answers to some frequently asked questions:

When does a hen start to lay? 
 A hen usually starts producing eggs at about 19 to 24 weeks. This is the time they reach sexual maturity. The actual age an individual hen starts laying varies due to many factors, such as diet, stress, breed, environment and light.

What is each stage in a hen's development after hatching called?
  There are many opinions and definitions on how old a female chicken can be when she is a chick, pullet or hen. However, this is the most common view:

• Before they start to lay they are a pullet (a female chick is also a pullet, but most people only call them pullets when they are sure they are females because with most breeds it is impossible to identify the sex of the chick when they first hatch, unless you have sex-linked chickens *post about sex-linked chickens and hybrids coming shortly*, but basically with sex-linked birds the male and female chicks are different colours.) 
•  At about 18 - 24 weeks they are known as Point of Lay Pullets (POL), and this is usually the age that breeders and suppliers sell their adult birds.
• After they have started producing eggs (they have reached sexual maturity) they are usually known as a hen. However, opinions, of course, differ greatly and some say that they are not a hen until they are a year old. Or, they are not a hen until they have been laying for 4 or more months, or when they go through their first moult.

How often does a hen lay?

A hen can only produce an egg every 25 hours, so about one a day, but it depends on the breed and age of the bird. Usually hens are most productive in their first 2 years of life, and then their egg productivity starts to decrease. Hybrids lay more than Pure Breeds. Some hybrids, such as the Gingernut Ranger or Black Rock, can lay up to 300 eggs a year. See this article for more information on the best egg-laying pure breeds.

Do you need a cockerel for the hens to lay?

No! It is widely believed that hens will only lay eggs if there is a cockerel present. However, hens will lay even if they have never even seen a cockerel before. A cock/rooster is only needed if you want fertile eggs to hatch, as eggs will not hatch if they are not fertile.

How is the egg formed inside the hen?

Diagram showing the position of the different parts of an egg.
Credit: Birdbrain99 (author)

When a female chick hatches, she has thousands of very small ova, which are stored in the ovary. She releases these into the oviduct when she reaches sexual maturity. An ovum is an undeveloped yolk; the albumen (white), the membrane and the shell are added as the yolk travels through the reproductive system. This whole process takes about 25 hours. If the hen has sperm (from the cock bird - she will only have sperm if she mates with a cock/rooster) is added to the yolk just before the albumen encases the yolk. The egg passes out of the hen through the cloaca, or vent. This is also used for excretion, and both the large intestine and the oviduct lead to the cloaca but as the egg is released, the hole to the large intestine closes up so that the egg is not contaminated by faeces. 

How long does an egg take to hatch?
Chicken eggs normally take 21 days to hatch, but various factors influence the hatch date, such as temperature and humidity. The eggs can be stored for up to 7 days before incubating.

What temperature and humidity do the eggs need to hatch?
It needs to be about 37.5 degrees Celsius (99.5 Fahrenheit). There are many different opinions on humidity, but the accepted idea is 40-50% from day 1 to day 18, and then 60-80% day 18 to hatching (usually day 21).

How can you be sure the eggs are fertile?
The eggs will only be fertile if the hen that laid them has been mated by a cock. It is unlikely that all of the eggs will be fertile. Cocks have 'favourite' hens, and may not bother mating with the others, or sometimes the hen doesn't get caught. However, a cock can fertile many eggs with one mating, and the sperm will stay in the system for up to three weeks. To check if an egg is fertile, you can use a technique called "candling". This only works after the egg has been in the incubator (or under the broody hen) for about 10 days. It is done by shining a bright light, such as a torch light, through the eggs. If the egg is fertile, blood vessels leading from a dark central spot (the embryo) should be visible. If the eggs is infertile or has died the eggs should be completely clear when you chine the light through it. If you are sure it is infertile, discard the egg, but if you are unsure, leave it in in case it is fertile. It is best to get hatching eggs from a recommended breeder or supplier nearby, so that you can check their stock and the environment the hens that the eggs are from are healthy. It also means the eggs have less of a distance to travel, as you can collect them. If not, you can order eggs online and have them delivered through the post, but the eggs may not be so fertile, or one might break during the journey.

A selection of different coloured and sized eggs.
Credit: Birdbrain99 (author)

How many hours of daylight does a hen need to lay?
She needs at least 14 hours of light a day for maximum egg production. However you can supplement the natural light in winter with artificial light in the coop.

Do hens ever lay misshapen eggs?
Yes. If this is a very infrequent occurrence, it isn't anything to worry about. However, if it is a regular occurrence, make sure your hens have plenty of calcium (in the form of oyster shell grit and supplements) and a good diet of layer's pellets. Young POL pullets often lay small, strange eggs at first, before they get into a routine.

Where do hens lay?
Most coops (see this post) have nest boxes attached. Most hens will lay in the darkest, safest spot they can find, but you can encourage hens to lay in the nest box by placing a dummy egg or a golf ball there at first as they like to lay where other hens have laid. If you have hens free-ranging they may find another place to lay outside, but most hens are happy to come back to the nest box.

Do I need to keep eggs in the fridge or what other ways to store them are there?
Many people keep eggs in the refrigerator, but this is unnecessary.  In a fridge, eggs in fact deteriorate faster because of the constant change in temperature when you open and close the door. Eggs can be stored at room temperature in an egg box or you can use an egg ramp. Egg ramps are good because you use the eggs at the bottom of the ramp first, and place the new ones at the top so you are not eating very fresh eggs and leaving the older ones to rot. Eggs can be stored for a very long time in a cool cellar or basement, but eggs stored at room temperature can be kept for for weeks. If you are unsure whether an egg is still fresh, you can place it in a dish of water. If it sinks to the bottom, it is still fine. If it floats or is on it's end, it is bad.
Never wash eggs before storage because this removes the protective outer layer on the eggshell and therefore bacteria can enter the egg and cause you to be ill. If you do get a soiled egg, use a piece of kitchen towel to remove the dirt as much as possible, and then when you come to eat it you can give it a quick rinse as long as you use it straight after. 
Many of the guidelines as to how long eggs last is about shop bought eggs, but shop bought eggs have already been stored for days or even weeks before they are sold!
Once you have refrigerated an egg, do not then store it at room temperature as the protective coating will have already been removed by being in the fridge.

Stories: Dealing with Death... No, I'm really not sure how!

I haven't written in a very long time, I'm sorry. But what can I say? It has been a very traumatic few months, as my characterful, cheeky, lovely Bonnie died. But that's not it. My beautiful Birdie got a throat tumour and had to be put down by the vet because food was unable to pass through. It takes a while before I find I can write about these things because I'm very close to all my chickens... Oh dear I'm crying again! I wish I could write a post about how to deal with a chicken's death, but I can't because I don't know how! I think you just have to remember what an amazing life they had with you. That you did everything you could for them. That you loved them, that they were able to be chickens and that their life was wonderful.

I feel so honoured to have been a part of their lives, and I will never forget them as long as I live.

Don't ever make the mistake of detaching yourself from your hens, even if they are egg-layers or for meat: you will regret it. You'll wish you'd known more about them; really discovered who they were. Just accept that when they do pass away you will be sad, and remember you will get through it, like I've done. Don't be ashamed to cry over a chicken: they are one of the most amazing, funny, quirky, beautiful animals on Earth. Love them while they're here... even if you eat them in the end!

Here are some photos of them to remember them by, but sadly these two hens are the two I don't have so many pictures of. See this post to see a film of them all too.

Bonnie was very patient when it came to bath-time!
Credit: birdbrain99 (Author)

Fast asleep!
Credit: birdbrain99 (Author)

Information: The Moult

Moult is the shedding of old feathers and the growing of new ones. Chickens do this usually once a year, between late Summer and early Autumn, but it varies between individuals. In chickens, the whole process may take up to two months.


Moulting is a very energy expensive process, and you can expect your hens to stop laying while they do this.

Moulting hen.
Credit: Sierravalleygirl  Permission: CC BY-NC 2.0

Care of Moulting Hens.

Hens do not usually need a helping hand during this process, but you must understand that they are much more susceptible to disease and illness while they moult because much energy is being spent. It is particularly important at this time to make sure your hens have a balanced diet. Keep stress to a minimum and avoid adding new birds during the moult.

My moulting bantam comes into the conservatory to warm up!
Credit: birdbrain99 (Author) 

Although your chickens should not shed most of their feathers at once, some do! Sadly, I do not have any pictures of Bonnie from a couple of years ago when she moulted practically all her feathers except a couple of wing and tail feathers. Although this is unusual it does happen. This year, one of my bantams Nutmeg did a similar thing, but not quite so bad (see photo). In this case, she is now in a cage in the conservatory where she will be warmer until she re-feathers. Often even birds in her state should be left outside with the other hens if it is not too cold, but it has been windy, rainy and cold here so she has had to come inside. If you notice birds shivering or fluffing up whatever feathers remain then they should be brought indoors and warmed up. Without feathers, birds are not water proof so quickly get chilled when it rains.

 If you notice bloodied feathers or any kind of scabs/blood they need to be separated from the rest of the flock until the new feathers grow through. This is because sometimes other hens will peck at the feathers if the chickens don't have enough protein, so give them some mealworms, boiled and crushed egg (shell included), a little meat and sunflower seeds.

New pin feathers coming through.
Credit: birdbrain99 (Author)

When the new feathers begin to come through, they are called pin feathers. Pin feathers are growing feathers that are wrapped in a protective sheath made of keratin. They are very delicate at this time and so many chickens will not enjoy being handled, and may struggle, damaging the growing feathers. For this reason, handling should be kept to a minimum whilst they moult.

  

Chicken Care: Keeping Chickens Cool in Hot Weather

We're having unusual weather in the UK this year, with the rainy Summers being replaced by hot, sunny weather.

Chickens can't sweat like us; they have to find other ways to keep cool. They pant, drink more water and seek shade. In really warm weather you may want to make them more comfortable with the following ideas.

    1. Provide shade. If you have a moveable run, place it under a tree,or shady place. Just keeping your hens out of direct sun will help considerably. If your run is stationary, wet a white sheet and sling it over the run. Make sure the sheet is white as this will reflect the sunlight away from the run, and if it is wet the water will begin to evaporate, taking the heat away with it. The sheet may need dampening again throughout the day. If your chickens are free-range, they should be able to find shade under a bush or tree themselves but it's good to try one of  the above ideas anyway, so you can be quite sure they have a cooler place to go.

    2. Water Trough. You could try lining a shallow tray with pebbles and then filling it with water. The hens will stand in this to keep cool. Another option is pouring water  onto the ground to form a muddy puddle. They can sit and scratch in it.

    3.  High water content food. My hens love watermelon in hot weather, and it really does help to keep them cool. Other high water content foods can be given and are enjoyed, particularly if they have just come out the fridge!


   4. Ice. You can place a few ice cubes in the water hopper to keep the water cool in the day, or you can freeze a plastic bottle filled with water and place it in the run. The hens can sit next to it to keep cool.

    5. Hose Pipe. Hosing down the run a little will keep the ground cooler and if you use a spray attachment then you can spray your hens too! This should only be done if they want it and if the spray is fine. Don't actually hose down the chickens, or soak them, this is not good for them! However, a mist spray will help keep the air cool and moist.


I hope these ideas help and I hope you and your chickens enjoy the rest of the Summer!