Chickens: Best Meat-producing and Utility Breeds

After a request, I have put together a list of all the best chicken breeds for meat production. As a bonus, many are also great egg-layers (see my post Chickens: Top 5 Best Egg-Laying Pure Breeds). Utility breeds are breeds that produce both good numbers of eggs and good meat. Broilers are breeds bred specifically for meat-production, also known as Table Birds.

Pure Breeds

Utility Light Sussex is best known for its dual-purpose meat and egg production.
Credit: Captain Vindaloo. Permission: Public Domain

Utility Light Sussex

The Light Sussex is a British breed, ideal for both the table and for eggs. There are many colours available, but the utility light sussex is the best known for its meat and eggs.

Weight: Large male: 9 lb (4.1 kg), large female: 7 lb (3.2 kg)

Personality: Docile, friendly and very easy to tame, these are a really amazing breed when it comes to personality.

Care: These birds are great for the beginner chicken keeper as they are easy to keep and require no special care. They are a hardy breed great for cooler climates.

Dorking

The Dorking is a very old breed, thought to have either been introduced to Britain by the Romans or to be from pre-Roman times. The Dorking is a fair layer and has very tasty meat. However, it is harder to source a stock than some of the more common breeds.

Weight:  Large male: 10 - 14 lb (4.6 - 6.4 kg) Large female: 8 - 10 lb (3.6 - 4.6 kg)

Personality: The Dorking is a docile breed that is easy to handle and tame.

Care: Despite all its qualities, the Dorking needs plenty of space to scratch, explore and run around, and is not too happy in confinement.

Cuckoo Maran free-ranging with a Rhode Island Red.
Credit: Captain Vindaloo. Permission:  Public Domain

Marans

Marans are known for their fleshy meat and beautiful brown eggs. They have a traditional yet interesting look, especially the Cuckoo variety.

Weight: Male: 8 lb (3.6 kg), female: 7 lb ( 3.2 kg)

Personality: Marans are very active birds, and need plenty to do. They do not appreciate being handled and can be a little temperamental as a breed, but it depends on the individual and strain.

Care: The Maran will not tolerate confinement and needs free-range or close to free-range conditions, otherwise it is a hardy breed with no specific problems.

The Barred Plymouth Rock is a striking breed, 
happy to free-range.
Credit: smerikal. Permission: CC-BY-SA-2.0

Plymouth Rock

The Plymouth Rock is a very popular breed in both the UK and America. It was introduced to Britain from America. It is not an efficient eater but matures early.

Weight: Male: 7 1/2 lb (3.4 kg), female: 6 1/2 lb (2.95 kg)

Personality: the Plymouth Rock is a friendly, calm breed that is happy to be handled.

Care: The Plymouth Rock will tolerate relative confinement but is equally happy to free-range. It is an ideal breed for the beginner.

Rhode Island Red

The Rhode Island Red is arguably one of the most well-known and best-loved breeds in America and the UK. They were first developed for their size and egg-laying abilities and remain to this day a very productive chicken.

Rhode Island Reds are great backyard birds.
Credit: U&I (Useful & Interesting Blog) Permission: Author's permission

Weight: Male: 8 1/2 lb (3.9 kg), female: 6 1/2 lb (2.95 kg)

Personality: RIRs (as they are sometimes known) are a great dual-purpose breed and also make great pets as they have a calm and docile nature. They are also inquisitive but will be happy in free-range or confined conditions (although do not overcrowd)

Care: They do well in most situations and are ideal beginner birds. They mature relatively early and are a perfect breed for the backyard or garden or for their meat and eggs. 

Australorp

The Ausralorp is a well-fleshed, white-skinned, excellent table bird, but is also a wonderful layer of about 200 light-brown eggs a year, as well as being a good exhibition bird.

Austalorp mature relatively quickly and are great table birds.
Credit: Jason buildakicker Permission: CC BY-NC-SA 2.0 

Weight: Male: 8 1/2 - 10 lb (3.8 - 4.6 kg), female: 6 1/2 - 8 lb (2.95 - 3.6 kg)

Personality: The Australorp is a handsome, quiet breed well-known for its calm temperament. It is also a good exhibition breed.

Care: The Ausralorp requires no specific care, tolerating confinement well and maturing early, as well as being an economical eater. 

Hybrids

There are many great hybrid breeds that are good table birds. These include Hubbard-ISA, Sasso, Cobb 500, Ross broilers, Cotswold Whites as well as many others. Unlike pure breeds, hybrids have many different names and are frequently allocated numbers instead of names. Hybrids are economical eaters and produce good meat and large quantities of eggs.

Information: Useful facts about chicken eggs

My two new hybrids have just started laying. It's reminded me how amazing eggs are, but how little most people (including myself) know about them.
For example, how does a hen actually produce an egg and how does an embryo inside the egg develop into a chick, at what age does a hen start laying and what is the best way to store eggs?

Here are the answers to some frequently asked questions:

When does a hen start to lay? 
 A hen usually starts producing eggs at about 19 to 24 weeks. This is the time they reach sexual maturity. The actual age an individual hen starts laying varies due to many factors, such as diet, stress, breed, environment and light.

What is each stage in a hen's development after hatching called?
  There are many opinions and definitions on how old a female chicken can be when she is a chick, pullet or hen. However, this is the most common view:

• Before they start to lay they are a pullet (a female chick is also a pullet, but most people only call them pullets when they are sure they are females because with most breeds it is impossible to identify the sex of the chick when they first hatch, unless you have sex-linked chickens *post about sex-linked chickens and hybrids coming shortly*, but basically with sex-linked birds the male and female chicks are different colours.) 
•  At about 18 - 24 weeks they are known as Point of Lay Pullets (POL), and this is usually the age that breeders and suppliers sell their adult birds.
• After they have started producing eggs (they have reached sexual maturity) they are usually known as a hen. However, opinions, of course, differ greatly and some say that they are not a hen until they are a year old. Or, they are not a hen until they have been laying for 4 or more months, or when they go through their first moult.

How often does a hen lay?

A hen can only produce an egg every 25 hours, so about one a day, but it depends on the breed and age of the bird. Usually hens are most productive in their first 2 years of life, and then their egg productivity starts to decrease. Hybrids lay more than Pure Breeds. Some hybrids, such as the Gingernut Ranger or Black Rock, can lay up to 300 eggs a year. See this article for more information on the best egg-laying pure breeds.

Do you need a cockerel for the hens to lay?

No! It is widely believed that hens will only lay eggs if there is a cockerel present. However, hens will lay even if they have never even seen a cockerel before. A cock/rooster is only needed if you want fertile eggs to hatch, as eggs will not hatch if they are not fertile.

How is the egg formed inside the hen?

Diagram showing the position of the different parts of an egg.
Credit: Birdbrain99 (author)

When a female chick hatches, she has thousands of very small ova, which are stored in the ovary. She releases these into the oviduct when she reaches sexual maturity. An ovum is an undeveloped yolk; the albumen (white), the membrane and the shell are added as the yolk travels through the reproductive system. This whole process takes about 25 hours. If the hen has sperm (from the cock bird - she will only have sperm if she mates with a cock/rooster) is added to the yolk just before the albumen encases the yolk. The egg passes out of the hen through the cloaca, or vent. This is also used for excretion, and both the large intestine and the oviduct lead to the cloaca but as the egg is released, the hole to the large intestine closes up so that the egg is not contaminated by faeces. 

How long does an egg take to hatch?
Chicken eggs normally take 21 days to hatch, but various factors influence the hatch date, such as temperature and humidity. The eggs can be stored for up to 7 days before incubating.

What temperature and humidity do the eggs need to hatch?
It needs to be about 37.5 degrees Celsius (99.5 Fahrenheit). There are many different opinions on humidity, but the accepted idea is 40-50% from day 1 to day 18, and then 60-80% day 18 to hatching (usually day 21).

How can you be sure the eggs are fertile?
The eggs will only be fertile if the hen that laid them has been mated by a cock. It is unlikely that all of the eggs will be fertile. Cocks have 'favourite' hens, and may not bother mating with the others, or sometimes the hen doesn't get caught. However, a cock can fertile many eggs with one mating, and the sperm will stay in the system for up to three weeks. To check if an egg is fertile, you can use a technique called "candling". This only works after the egg has been in the incubator (or under the broody hen) for about 10 days. It is done by shining a bright light, such as a torch light, through the eggs. If the egg is fertile, blood vessels leading from a dark central spot (the embryo) should be visible. If the eggs is infertile or has died the eggs should be completely clear when you chine the light through it. If you are sure it is infertile, discard the egg, but if you are unsure, leave it in in case it is fertile. It is best to get hatching eggs from a recommended breeder or supplier nearby, so that you can check their stock and the environment the hens that the eggs are from are healthy. It also means the eggs have less of a distance to travel, as you can collect them. If not, you can order eggs online and have them delivered through the post, but the eggs may not be so fertile, or one might break during the journey.

A selection of different coloured and sized eggs.
Credit: Birdbrain99 (author)

How many hours of daylight does a hen need to lay?
She needs at least 14 hours of light a day for maximum egg production. However you can supplement the natural light in winter with artificial light in the coop.

Do hens ever lay misshapen eggs?
Yes. If this is a very infrequent occurrence, it isn't anything to worry about. However, if it is a regular occurrence, make sure your hens have plenty of calcium (in the form of oyster shell grit and supplements) and a good diet of layer's pellets. Young POL pullets often lay small, strange eggs at first, before they get into a routine.

Where do hens lay?
Most coops (see this post) have nest boxes attached. Most hens will lay in the darkest, safest spot they can find, but you can encourage hens to lay in the nest box by placing a dummy egg or a golf ball there at first as they like to lay where other hens have laid. If you have hens free-ranging they may find another place to lay outside, but most hens are happy to come back to the nest box.

Do I need to keep eggs in the fridge or what other ways to store them are there?
Many people keep eggs in the refrigerator, but this is unnecessary.  In a fridge, eggs in fact deteriorate faster because of the constant change in temperature when you open and close the door. Eggs can be stored at room temperature in an egg box or you can use an egg ramp. Egg ramps are good because you use the eggs at the bottom of the ramp first, and place the new ones at the top so you are not eating very fresh eggs and leaving the older ones to rot. Eggs can be stored for a very long time in a cool cellar or basement, but eggs stored at room temperature can be kept for for weeks. If you are unsure whether an egg is still fresh, you can place it in a dish of water. If it sinks to the bottom, it is still fine. If it floats or is on it's end, it is bad.
Never wash eggs before storage because this removes the protective outer layer on the eggshell and therefore bacteria can enter the egg and cause you to be ill. If you do get a soiled egg, use a piece of kitchen towel to remove the dirt as much as possible, and then when you come to eat it you can give it a quick rinse as long as you use it straight after. 
Many of the guidelines as to how long eggs last is about shop bought eggs, but shop bought eggs have already been stored for days or even weeks before they are sold!
Once you have refrigerated an egg, do not then store it at room temperature as the protective coating will have already been removed by being in the fridge.

Information: The Moult

Moult is the shedding of old feathers and the growing of new ones. Chickens do this usually once a year, between late Summer and early Autumn, but it varies between individuals. In chickens, the whole process may take up to two months.


Moulting is a very energy expensive process, and you can expect your hens to stop laying while they do this.

Moulting hen.
Credit: Sierravalleygirl  Permission: CC BY-NC 2.0

Care of Moulting Hens.

Hens do not usually need a helping hand during this process, but you must understand that they are much more susceptible to disease and illness while they moult because much energy is being spent. It is particularly important at this time to make sure your hens have a balanced diet. Keep stress to a minimum and avoid adding new birds during the moult.

My moulting bantam comes into the conservatory to warm up!
Credit: birdbrain99 (Author) 

Although your chickens should not shed most of their feathers at once, some do! Sadly, I do not have any pictures of Bonnie from a couple of years ago when she moulted practically all her feathers except a couple of wing and tail feathers. Although this is unusual it does happen. This year, one of my bantams Nutmeg did a similar thing, but not quite so bad (see photo). In this case, she is now in a cage in the conservatory where she will be warmer until she re-feathers. Often even birds in her state should be left outside with the other hens if it is not too cold, but it has been windy, rainy and cold here so she has had to come inside. If you notice birds shivering or fluffing up whatever feathers remain then they should be brought indoors and warmed up. Without feathers, birds are not water proof so quickly get chilled when it rains.

 If you notice bloodied feathers or any kind of scabs/blood they need to be separated from the rest of the flock until the new feathers grow through. This is because sometimes other hens will peck at the feathers if the chickens don't have enough protein, so give them some mealworms, boiled and crushed egg (shell included), a little meat and sunflower seeds.

New pin feathers coming through.
Credit: birdbrain99 (Author)

When the new feathers begin to come through, they are called pin feathers. Pin feathers are growing feathers that are wrapped in a protective sheath made of keratin. They are very delicate at this time and so many chickens will not enjoy being handled, and may struggle, damaging the growing feathers. For this reason, handling should be kept to a minimum whilst they moult.

  

Chicken Care: Choosing a Chicken Coop

For happy, healthy chickens it is very important to have a good house for them. This is where they will roost at night and lay their eggs.

My first coop made of recycled wood. 
Credit: birdbrain99

If you follow the points below when building, converting or buying a coop, there is little that can go wrong:

• Draught-free: Not only will a draught chill them, risking disease, in the winter months frostbite to the comb may become apparent due to cold, draughty conditions.

• Spacious: Over-crowding can cause so many problems, and your birds may get injured. The coop will also get dirty faster. As a guide line, if you end up buying your coop please check the specification of how  many birds it can fit, and then take away 1 or 2 birds per 4, as the companies often work on smaller breeds or bantams (other chicken keepers recommend this. my own experience: I bought a coop online, it said it could fit 8 birds in, but I've never had more than five in it as there wasn't space on the perches and any more chickens would have had to sleep in the nestbox!)

• Good ventilation: Despite the fact that I noted above not to have a draughty coop, some ventilation is a must. The best thing would be to have a small wire grid or a few holes just above where the chickens' heads will be whilst they are on the perch, or at the highest point where the roof meets the sides as this is where most of the foul air will gather.

• Dry: There should be no way for water to get in, or condensation to build up: if you see condensation, more ventilation is required. The coop should not get damp either. This last problem can be prevented if the coop is raised off the ground.

• Easy access: This includes both you and the hens. You will need to be able to access the coop for cleaning,collecting eggs and checking on the birds.

• Easy to clean: Most things in the coop - such as the perches - should preferably be removable so that the coop can be maintained responsibly. There should be a large, secure access door to clean the main coop.

• Secure and Predator Proof: There should be some way of locking both the human and chickens access doors, even if it is just a simple hook or bolt. The coop must also be predator proof, or you may find just a pile of feathers in the morning!

• Insulated: This is not necessary - most coops aren't insulated - but if it is at all possible, particularly if you live in cold climates, it would be favourable.

Buying a coop.

There are a wide range of different coops on the market. Which one you choose in the end is up to you. However, your choice should be based primarily on the health and well-being of the birds. Of course, it's great if you can get a coop which is also pretty! It may be a much cheaper option to make your coop at home, and it can also be exactly how you want it then too. However, if you're not very handy, or don't have the time, a ready-made coop is a great option.

Converting  Existing Buildings

Have you already got a shed or out-building? Well, it may be a lot cheaper and convenient if you could just turn that into a chicken house! Most building floors are suitable, such as wood, brick or tiles, but do be aware that if you have a soil floor you will need to think carefully about predator-proofing, damp and cleaning. Just follow the points above, and there are unlikely to be any difficulties.

Building your own.

Another option is to build your own. My first coop was made of old pallet pieces that we collected from saw mills and recycling centres - completely free! If you don't want to design it all yourself, just search around and you can get plans and measurements of other people's coops, and all you have to do is nail the wood together!

 Left: Nest boxes, accessible from outside and with removable wall for cleaning.

Right: inside showing perch, window and nestboxes. 

Plastic, wood or something else?

You may have heard of a relatively new chicken coop called an 'Eglu'. It is a popular option in recent years, made of plastic. Many people think they are the best coops, and they are easy to clean, but some of the information from the company who sell them is misleading, and they are very small and without a proper perch or nest box. However, they do have an advantage because they are made of plastic so there are no crevices, slits, etc. in which Red Mite can hide (Check out this article). There is also the environmental issue. Plastic lasts forever, creating more litter where as responsibly-sourced wood does not. Many people do think they're easy to use, though.
There are also other plastic coops, and even ones made out of recycled materials which could be another option.
If you are planning on a more traditional look, made of wood, you might find it useful to place some lino or something similar on the floor for extra-easy cleaning. Check regularly for mites, and treat the wood with a pet-safe wood treatment.

Information: How to fox-proof your chicken run.

There are various ways to fox-proof your chicken run. The one you choose in the end depends on how much space you have, if your run is already built, and your budget. Here are a few I know of, explaining how to stop foxes digging under. However, they can also climb so either covering your run with wire, a solid roof or fruit netting is a good option, and will also protect from hawks. Otherwise you could run a bit of electric fencing along the top of the fence. This will not protect from hawks though.

1. Basically just use small chicken wire, tacked to the bottom of the run (what I did for my bantam run) to basically make a wire floor. This doesn't really work if you plan on having a tractor (movable run) because they can't scratch or dust bath, but it is good for small, stationary runs because you can put woodchips/shavings/etc. over the top so that they can scratch. It must be one of the safest options. but can only be used for small runs, before it becomes very expensive.

Using a fox-proof "skirt" around the chicken coop and run.
Credit:  Moosicorn Permission:  CC BY-NC-ND 2.

2. I use this for the large fowl run. Attach wire to the side of the run near the floor. Then bend it so that it sticks out at the side for a little over a foot (not on inside of the run). If the wire isn't stiff you'll need to put  some soil over it and hold it down with a few bricks/stones or tent pegs. Obviously the run has to then be stationary, but you can also move it around if you use tent pegs to hold the wire down. This creates a kind of "skirt" around the base of the run, and is a good option for large, stationary runs.

3. Paving: this is another option. You could lay slabs down or concrete and place the run on top. There will then be no way for the fox to dig underneath. Then lay something down on top for scratching in. If you do want to move the run around then you could do so, and just put it on the slabs if you go away so your "chicken-sitters" don't need to worry about foxes!

4. This is similar to no.2, but instead of pegging the "skirt" down, you dig the mesh vertically into the ground, before filling it in. I've never tried it, but it is a very safe option.

5. You could try electric fencing, or an electric wire running along the bottom of the fence and again another one at the top, but it wont be as safe as the others.

Secure chicken run on slabs.
Credit: David Clegg Permission: CC BY NC-SA 2.0

The only time you really need to worry about fox-proofing is when you are away or if you don't want to lock them in and let them out of the coop twice a day. However, foxes do come out in the day, particularly if you live in an urban area where they won't be as shy. If you can, you might as well make sure your birds are safe from foxes and other predators also!

Information: Broody hens

What is a Broody?

Adjective: (0f a hen) Wishing or inclined to incubate eggs.

Meaning that a hen, when she feels that she has sufficient eggs to hatch, will attempt to hatch the eggs. She will lose the down feathers around her breast area, which are very insulating; this way she can transfer enough heat from her body to the eggs to hatch them. Checking the brood patch is a good way to tell if the hen is definitely broody.  A broody hen is sometimes called a clocker.

Nutmeg my broody bantam hen.
Credit: birdbrain99 (Author)

Signs of a broody hen are:

• Sleeping in the nestbox instead of perching.
• Clucking when you come near.
• Sitting in the nest most of the day.
• Looking fluffed up and flat whilst on the nest.
• When placed away from the nest, will keep her wings and even tail spread out before going back to the nest.
• She may peck you if you go near to the nest, or to collect the eggs.
• Brood patch (feathers missing from breast area)

My bantam, Nutmeg, is currently broody. However, hens may not even sit on any eggs when they become broody: they may sit on golf balls, small stones, or she may not even sit on anything! Nutmeg is currently sitting on a golf ball and an old egg. I believe I stimulated her into becoming broody by keeping the golf ball in there (it was in the nestbox in the first place just to show them where to lay, and I never got round to taking it out) She must have felt she had sufficient eggs to start a nest (I believe she had two eggs and a golf ball when she started). 

In this video, I take out the golf ball from under her. She quickly moves it back under to keep it warm.      


Bantam hens can sit on about six eggs, whereas Large fowl can sit on up to 12 eggs. Bantam eggs take less time to hatch (about 18-20 days) than large fowl eggs (about 21 days).

Caring for a Broody Hen and her Eggs.

Some hens may not come off the nest much at all during the incubation period, and will lose condition whilst sitting. You should take her off the nest once or twice a day so that she can eat, drink, exercise and relieve herself (they do not like to soil the nest). She may even appreciate a dust bath.
 Don't be at all surprised if she loses condition and weight.
 If you plan on hatching eggs under her, be certain that she is very broody as she may otherwise give up halfway through. If you do plan on hatching eggs, it is recommended that you separate her from the other hens in a specially designed broody coop. This coop should have a wire floor and is rested on the soil, with bedding such as straw on top to make a comfortable nest (it is not recommended to use hay as bedding because it can carry harmful bacteria or fungi.) This allows enough moisture to reach the eggs from the soil. Another option is to sprinkle the eggs lightly with a few drops of warm water once a day (best in the evening).
 A rabbit hutch, dog crate or anything to keep her separated can work instead of a specially designed broody coop.
 To move nests, just take the eggs she was sitting on, place them in the new location,  place the hen on the new nest then keep it dark for a day or two so that she is settled once more. She should hopefully settle and stay broody. If not, then she is unlikely to be a very good mother anyway. 

If any eggs do get soiled, it is important to clean them. Use a wire brush or scourer (careful not to damage the eggs) instead of washing them (this removes the protective layer of the shell, allowing harmful bacteria to get in.)

                                             
You will need to pay particular attention for mites and lice whilst you hen is broody, because:

•  she can lose condition more quickly
•  it can irritate her, resulting in abandoning the nest
•  the mites and lice will pass on to the chicks, and can then result in death                               

To prevent this, frequently dust her with a mite or louse powder, as well as a little in the nestbox itself.

 Do not disturb her or the eggs on the last couple of days before hatching. Place a shallow dish of water and chick crumbs next to her for when the chicks hatch.

Breaking a broody.

So you don't want her to be broody? Fair enough if you don't want her to hatch eggs. In fact, despite how protective and cute she looks whilst broody, it is best to "break" her, as it's called, because she will lose condition whilst broody.Even if you do manage to break a broody, she will likely become broody again at some point.

The best way is to make her as uncomfortable as possible, really. The most frequently used method it to place her in a wire bottomed cage without bedding in a light, sheltered place raised off the ground for a couple of days. Remember to give her plenty of food and water!! Once she has been in this contraption for a couple of days, release her back with the other hens.

Remove the eggs as soon as possible (checking at least once or twice a day) to try and prevent her from going broody again. Of course, there will be cases when she goes broody even if there aren't any eggs. 

Common Breeds that go Broody.

There are some breeds that go broody more than others. These include:

• Silkie
• Wyandotte
• Sussex
• Orpington
• Pekin bantam
• Cochin
• Barred Rock
• Sumatran
• Japanese bantam
• Scots Grey
• Scots Dumpy
• Maran
• Faverolle
• Old English Game - this breed is unique in that it is the only breed in which a male may help with the rearing of -and may even take over- the brood.

Of course there are exceptions (my Sussex hens have never gone broody), but the general rule is the heavier, docile breeds are more likely to go broody, whereas the flighty, light breeds are not going to be such good broodies and mothers. If you really want a very good mother your best option is to get a Silkie. 

If you want lots of eggs, choose one of the Hybrid breeds or not such good broodies.

 Some of the not so good broodies are:

• Leghorn
• Hybrids - most hybrid breeds have had the broodiness bred out of them, to increase egg prodution.
•  Lakenvelder
• Campine
• Welsummer
• Hamburgh
• Rhode Island Red