Updates...

Hi,
I know I haven't written for a while but I've been editing older posts, either which I hadn't quite finished or that I wanted to add to.
Please check them out!

• I have added the "Poultry Lice" section and also a diagram to Stories or Problems: Mites and Lice.
• Also the "Less Frequently" section to Chicken Care: Daily Routines.

Thanks for looking! :D

Pepper. 
Credit: birdbrain99

Chicken Care: Choosing a Chicken Coop

For happy, healthy chickens it is very important to have a good house for them. This is where they will roost at night and lay their eggs.

My first coop made of recycled wood. 
Credit: birdbrain99

If you follow the points below when building, converting or buying a coop, there is little that can go wrong:

• Draught-free: Not only will a draught chill them, risking disease, in the winter months frostbite to the comb may become apparent due to cold, draughty conditions.

• Spacious: Over-crowding can cause so many problems, and your birds may get injured. The coop will also get dirty faster. As a guide line, if you end up buying your coop please check the specification of how  many birds it can fit, and then take away 1 or 2 birds per 4, as the companies often work on smaller breeds or bantams (other chicken keepers recommend this. my own experience: I bought a coop online, it said it could fit 8 birds in, but I've never had more than five in it as there wasn't space on the perches and any more chickens would have had to sleep in the nestbox!)

• Good ventilation: Despite the fact that I noted above not to have a draughty coop, some ventilation is a must. The best thing would be to have a small wire grid or a few holes just above where the chickens' heads will be whilst they are on the perch, or at the highest point where the roof meets the sides as this is where most of the foul air will gather.

• Dry: There should be no way for water to get in, or condensation to build up: if you see condensation, more ventilation is required. The coop should not get damp either. This last problem can be prevented if the coop is raised off the ground.

• Easy access: This includes both you and the hens. You will need to be able to access the coop for cleaning,collecting eggs and checking on the birds.

• Easy to clean: Most things in the coop - such as the perches - should preferably be removable so that the coop can be maintained responsibly. There should be a large, secure access door to clean the main coop.

• Secure and Predator Proof: There should be some way of locking both the human and chickens access doors, even if it is just a simple hook or bolt. The coop must also be predator proof, or you may find just a pile of feathers in the morning!

• Insulated: This is not necessary - most coops aren't insulated - but if it is at all possible, particularly if you live in cold climates, it would be favourable.

Buying a coop.

There are a wide range of different coops on the market. Which one you choose in the end is up to you. However, your choice should be based primarily on the health and well-being of the birds. Of course, it's great if you can get a coop which is also pretty! It may be a much cheaper option to make your coop at home, and it can also be exactly how you want it then too. However, if you're not very handy, or don't have the time, a ready-made coop is a great option.

Converting  Existing Buildings

Have you already got a shed or out-building? Well, it may be a lot cheaper and convenient if you could just turn that into a chicken house! Most building floors are suitable, such as wood, brick or tiles, but do be aware that if you have a soil floor you will need to think carefully about predator-proofing, damp and cleaning. Just follow the points above, and there are unlikely to be any difficulties.

Building your own.

Another option is to build your own. My first coop was made of old pallet pieces that we collected from saw mills and recycling centres - completely free! If you don't want to design it all yourself, just search around and you can get plans and measurements of other people's coops, and all you have to do is nail the wood together!

 Left: Nest boxes, accessible from outside and with removable wall for cleaning.

Right: inside showing perch, window and nestboxes. 

Plastic, wood or something else?

You may have heard of a relatively new chicken coop called an 'Eglu'. It is a popular option in recent years, made of plastic. Many people think they are the best coops, and they are easy to clean, but some of the information from the company who sell them is misleading, and they are very small and without a proper perch or nest box. However, they do have an advantage because they are made of plastic so there are no crevices, slits, etc. in which Red Mite can hide (Check out this article). There is also the environmental issue. Plastic lasts forever, creating more litter where as responsibly-sourced wood does not. Many people do think they're easy to use, though.
There are also other plastic coops, and even ones made out of recycled materials which could be another option.
If you are planning on a more traditional look, made of wood, you might find it useful to place some lino or something similar on the floor for extra-easy cleaning. Check regularly for mites, and treat the wood with a pet-safe wood treatment.

Stories or Problems: Common Mites and Lice that Infest Chickens

Here is a list I've made up of the most common lice and mites you are likely to find on chickens, how to get rid of them, what to look for and how to prevent it.

The most important places to look for the different mite and lice species.
Credit: birdbrain99

Common Name: Scaly Leg.

Type: Parasite.

Look for: Up turned leg scales. Apparent discomfort and excessive "preening" of the legs. Limping (in bad cases).

Caused by: Scaly leg is caused by microscopic mites (called Dermatoryctes mutans) which burrow in to the skin between the leg scales. They produce white crusts which force the scales up and cause discomfort for the affected birds. These mites are also called Scaly Leg Mites.
If this problem is discovered early and treated quickly then it is a very simple matter to sort out. However, if it is discovered much later on then it is slightly more tricky, and if it is left then the affected bird will have severe leg problems and will become lame.

Treatment/Prevention: I found this problem at the early stage when it was hardly noticeable, so I came off lightly. I treated it with Benzyl Benzoate which I got from the chemist but it is also available at some vets. There are also special 'Scaly leg treatments' which you can get at farm shops. Benzyl Benzoate is often used on horses, but the lady at the chemist asked if it was for our faces! "No," we replied, "it is for a chicken's legs." She gave us a rather quizzical look...
Soak the chicken's legs and paint on the Benzyl Benzoate which should look like a kind of cream. Use a fine paint brush for this. I repeated it every few days for a couple of weeks to make quite sure it was properly solved and have had no more problems with it yet. However, scaly leg is highly contagious so it would be a good idea to separate the affected birds and treat all the chickens even if they haven't got it. It is also advisable to thoroughly wash the coop as well and move the chickens on to new ground, but I was unable to do this and I solved it so it is not necessary, but it does take more work and is less likely to be quite so thorough if you don't.
Vaseline or Petroleum Jelly can also be used: rub this onto the legs after cleaning them, then wrap in a bandage so it doesn't rub off. This will suffocate the mites, but in my experience is not as affective as Benzyl Benzoate.


Common Name: Northern Fowl Mite.

Type: External Parasite.

Look for: Matted, wet or greasy looking feathers. Dirty vent feathers. Pale comb. Scabs around vent and under feathers.

Caused by: Northern Fowl Mites are 1mm long mites that live entirely on the birds. Unlike red mites, they feed on the chicken's blood day and night and stay on the birds. They are brown, red or black in colour and quite round-looking. You may see them scuttling around on the skin or feathers. They cause irritation, blood loss and anaemia.

Treatment/prevention: A monthly dusting of a suitable anti-mite dust or spray should hopefully prevent the problem, but if you do notice any mites increase frequency to every few days. Treat the birds as well as the coop, paying particular attention to the vent area, under the wings and neck. Remember to treat the crest if your bird has one too!
PLEASE CHECK ALL YOUR BIRDS FOR MITES as they seem to prefer some birds more than others. I have never found a single mite on Daffy or Pepper, for example, when at the same time there have been a few on Nutmeg and Bonnie. If I had just checked Pepper and Daffy I would have said that none of my hens had any mites, so all birds should be checked.

Common Name: Red Mite.

Red Mite (Dermanyssus gallinae).
Credit: Luis Fernandez Garcia Permission: CC BY-SA-2.5-ES
Via Wikimedia Commons

Look for: Red Mites actually live in the coop itself. They come out at  night to feed on the blood of the birds while they are on the roost, so are quite difficult to spot. I check every night for signs of them, just flash a torch around the coop walls and on/underneath the perches. In bad cases, your chickens may refuse to go into the coop to roost, spending the nights outside.

Caused by: Small mites, similar to northern fowl mites, that live in the coop. They are called Dermanyssus gallinae.

Treatment/Prevention: Sprinkle some anti-mite powder along the roosts and in the bedding, and along any shelves, crevices, etc. regularly. Don't use long straw, as they can hide inside the pieces.
If you notice any signs of red mite, move your birds out of the  coop and treat with a proven anti-mite spray or powder. Hose down the coop, scrub and clean, then disinfect with an anti-mite spray or bleach solution. Wait until it is properly dry before reintroducing your birds, and treat the coop frequently afterwards.

Common Name: Poultry Lice.

Type: External Parasite.

Look For: Excessive preening. Easier to spot than mites, can be found clustered on feathers or crawling on the skin. Egg clusters on vent feathers can be spotted by parting the feathers near the vent. Eggs look like white blobs attached to the feathers. Also check under wing for adults and eggs.

Caused By: There are about forty to fifty different species of lice that can affect chickens, but they can all be treated in basically the same way. They are straw-coloured insects that don't actually suck the blood of the birds, but eat the dead skin and feather shafts. However, they can be just as irritating as mites!

Treatment/Prevention:
Similar to Northern Fowl Mites. Sprinkle a good quality lice powder under the feathers, paying particular attention to the vent area and under the wings. They live entirely on the chickens. If you notice a lot of louse eggs (nits), bathe the affected hen with a mild pet or baby shampoo, and try to loosen the eggs to coming off. Careful not to pull, as this will hurt the bird! Otherwise, you can rub Vaseline/petroleum jelly over the eggs. This will smother them and they will eventually fall off, but I haven't found this quite so effective as directly removing the eggs.

Information: How to fox-proof your chicken run.

There are various ways to fox-proof your chicken run. The one you choose in the end depends on how much space you have, if your run is already built, and your budget. Here are a few I know of, explaining how to stop foxes digging under. However, they can also climb so either covering your run with wire, a solid roof or fruit netting is a good option, and will also protect from hawks. Otherwise you could run a bit of electric fencing along the top of the fence. This will not protect from hawks though.

1. Basically just use small chicken wire, tacked to the bottom of the run (what I did for my bantam run) to basically make a wire floor. This doesn't really work if you plan on having a tractor (movable run) because they can't scratch or dust bath, but it is good for small, stationary runs because you can put woodchips/shavings/etc. over the top so that they can scratch. It must be one of the safest options. but can only be used for small runs, before it becomes very expensive.

Using a fox-proof "skirt" around the chicken coop and run.
Credit:  Moosicorn Permission:  CC BY-NC-ND 2.

2. I use this for the large fowl run. Attach wire to the side of the run near the floor. Then bend it so that it sticks out at the side for a little over a foot (not on inside of the run). If the wire isn't stiff you'll need to put  some soil over it and hold it down with a few bricks/stones or tent pegs. Obviously the run has to then be stationary, but you can also move it around if you use tent pegs to hold the wire down. This creates a kind of "skirt" around the base of the run, and is a good option for large, stationary runs.

3. Paving: this is another option. You could lay slabs down or concrete and place the run on top. There will then be no way for the fox to dig underneath. Then lay something down on top for scratching in. If you do want to move the run around then you could do so, and just put it on the slabs if you go away so your "chicken-sitters" don't need to worry about foxes!

4. This is similar to no.2, but instead of pegging the "skirt" down, you dig the mesh vertically into the ground, before filling it in. I've never tried it, but it is a very safe option.

5. You could try electric fencing, or an electric wire running along the bottom of the fence and again another one at the top, but it wont be as safe as the others.

Secure chicken run on slabs.
Credit: David Clegg Permission: CC BY NC-SA 2.0

The only time you really need to worry about fox-proofing is when you are away or if you don't want to lock them in and let them out of the coop twice a day. However, foxes do come out in the day, particularly if you live in an urban area where they won't be as shy. If you can, you might as well make sure your birds are safe from foxes and other predators also!

Chicken Care: Daily Routines

Why?

Your chickens benefit greatly from a daily routine, as they

 are creatures of habit.

Credit: birdbrain99 (Author)

It is really important to establish a daily routine with your birds. Chickens love order and are very habitual. They like to know what-happens-when, and it is good also for you. A daily routine is made based on you and your hens' needs. It should be reliable and realistic.

What do I need to do on a daily basis?

This reallly depends, but the most you'll need to do is:

1. Check for eggs
2. Spot clean coop
3. Fill up food hopper
4. Check water
5. Feed kitchen scaps/greens/corn
6. Lock them up at night
7. Let the out in the morning

What do you do?

I do all the above.  A routine will come naturally once you have had your chickens for a while. Here are my basic chicken jobs timetable for the summer, though. It starts at 06:30 am - 07:30 am.

Early Morning: Let hens out. Spot clean the nestbox (Bonnie sleeps in one at night so I have to clean it before they lay otherwise the eggs get soiled). Bring up/check water. Scatter a jar of mixed corn around the runs ( I feed a little under a jar for six hens).

Mid morning: Fill up feed hopper (there's usually some pellets left over from the day before so there is food when they come out the coop first thing.)  Feed any greens. Check for eggs.

Early afternoon:  Spot clean the rest of the coop. Give any kitchen scraps. Another egg-check.

Evening: Lock them up in the coop for the night. Check water/bring down if needs cleaning to return in the morning.
I will often then go up throughout the day just to see them.

What if I'm away most of the day at work/school?

 If you aren't at home most of the day, like me, then you can easily do it all in just a couple of trips, one morning and one evening. Such as this:

Early Morning: Let them out. Spot clean coop (though this isn't necessary: you could use a deep litter system so you need to clean much less often). Fill/check food and water. Give them any scraps.

Evening: Check for eggs. Lock them up. If you're back early enough then maybe you could feed them extra treats now.

Less Frequently.

As well as everything you do daily, there are things that need to be done weekly, monthly and yearly also. These include:

• Cleaning out coop - which I do every couple of months, but if you do a deep litter system you'll only have to do that a couple of times a year.
• Disinfect and wash the coop. This needs doing once a year, unless you've had problems with red mite or illness.
• Clean Feed hopper. This needs doing less frequently than water. I do it every month or so (read about it at the bottom of this post); depending on how large it is, how many chickens you have, how much food you put in and what feed you use.
• Health check. It is good to do this every few days. I will write a post about this soon, and add a link here when I do.
• Treat for worms and mites. Treat for worms a couple of times a year but some people don't bother at all unless they see signs. The only product I would use for worming is Flubenvet as it is the only properly tested product. Do Not use Verm-X because it killed one of my hens which would still be alive and well if I'd used Flubenvet (long story)!
• Replace run litter. Depending on what you use (another thing I need to write about), it needs to be replace once to four times a year.

Notes.

Don't let them out really early some mornings, and then later other mornings. They are likely to start shouting when they aren't let out early and can disturb neighbours/you/your family!!

If your birds are partly free-range it is good to also set up a routine for when they will be allowed to do this and for how long.

Information: Broody hens

What is a Broody?

Adjective: (0f a hen) Wishing or inclined to incubate eggs.

Meaning that a hen, when she feels that she has sufficient eggs to hatch, will attempt to hatch the eggs. She will lose the down feathers around her breast area, which are very insulating; this way she can transfer enough heat from her body to the eggs to hatch them. Checking the brood patch is a good way to tell if the hen is definitely broody.  A broody hen is sometimes called a clocker.

Nutmeg my broody bantam hen.
Credit: birdbrain99 (Author)

Signs of a broody hen are:

• Sleeping in the nestbox instead of perching.
• Clucking when you come near.
• Sitting in the nest most of the day.
• Looking fluffed up and flat whilst on the nest.
• When placed away from the nest, will keep her wings and even tail spread out before going back to the nest.
• She may peck you if you go near to the nest, or to collect the eggs.
• Brood patch (feathers missing from breast area)

My bantam, Nutmeg, is currently broody. However, hens may not even sit on any eggs when they become broody: they may sit on golf balls, small stones, or she may not even sit on anything! Nutmeg is currently sitting on a golf ball and an old egg. I believe I stimulated her into becoming broody by keeping the golf ball in there (it was in the nestbox in the first place just to show them where to lay, and I never got round to taking it out) She must have felt she had sufficient eggs to start a nest (I believe she had two eggs and a golf ball when she started). 

In this video, I take out the golf ball from under her. She quickly moves it back under to keep it warm.      


Bantam hens can sit on about six eggs, whereas Large fowl can sit on up to 12 eggs. Bantam eggs take less time to hatch (about 18-20 days) than large fowl eggs (about 21 days).

Caring for a Broody Hen and her Eggs.

Some hens may not come off the nest much at all during the incubation period, and will lose condition whilst sitting. You should take her off the nest once or twice a day so that she can eat, drink, exercise and relieve herself (they do not like to soil the nest). She may even appreciate a dust bath.
 Don't be at all surprised if she loses condition and weight.
 If you plan on hatching eggs under her, be certain that she is very broody as she may otherwise give up halfway through. If you do plan on hatching eggs, it is recommended that you separate her from the other hens in a specially designed broody coop. This coop should have a wire floor and is rested on the soil, with bedding such as straw on top to make a comfortable nest (it is not recommended to use hay as bedding because it can carry harmful bacteria or fungi.) This allows enough moisture to reach the eggs from the soil. Another option is to sprinkle the eggs lightly with a few drops of warm water once a day (best in the evening).
 A rabbit hutch, dog crate or anything to keep her separated can work instead of a specially designed broody coop.
 To move nests, just take the eggs she was sitting on, place them in the new location,  place the hen on the new nest then keep it dark for a day or two so that she is settled once more. She should hopefully settle and stay broody. If not, then she is unlikely to be a very good mother anyway. 

If any eggs do get soiled, it is important to clean them. Use a wire brush or scourer (careful not to damage the eggs) instead of washing them (this removes the protective layer of the shell, allowing harmful bacteria to get in.)

                                             
You will need to pay particular attention for mites and lice whilst you hen is broody, because:

•  she can lose condition more quickly
•  it can irritate her, resulting in abandoning the nest
•  the mites and lice will pass on to the chicks, and can then result in death                               

To prevent this, frequently dust her with a mite or louse powder, as well as a little in the nestbox itself.

 Do not disturb her or the eggs on the last couple of days before hatching. Place a shallow dish of water and chick crumbs next to her for when the chicks hatch.

Breaking a broody.

So you don't want her to be broody? Fair enough if you don't want her to hatch eggs. In fact, despite how protective and cute she looks whilst broody, it is best to "break" her, as it's called, because she will lose condition whilst broody.Even if you do manage to break a broody, she will likely become broody again at some point.

The best way is to make her as uncomfortable as possible, really. The most frequently used method it to place her in a wire bottomed cage without bedding in a light, sheltered place raised off the ground for a couple of days. Remember to give her plenty of food and water!! Once she has been in this contraption for a couple of days, release her back with the other hens.

Remove the eggs as soon as possible (checking at least once or twice a day) to try and prevent her from going broody again. Of course, there will be cases when she goes broody even if there aren't any eggs. 

Common Breeds that go Broody.

There are some breeds that go broody more than others. These include:

• Silkie
• Wyandotte
• Sussex
• Orpington
• Pekin bantam
• Cochin
• Barred Rock
• Sumatran
• Japanese bantam
• Scots Grey
• Scots Dumpy
• Maran
• Faverolle
• Old English Game - this breed is unique in that it is the only breed in which a male may help with the rearing of -and may even take over- the brood.

Of course there are exceptions (my Sussex hens have never gone broody), but the general rule is the heavier, docile breeds are more likely to go broody, whereas the flighty, light breeds are not going to be such good broodies and mothers. If you really want a very good mother your best option is to get a Silkie. 

If you want lots of eggs, choose one of the Hybrid breeds or not such good broodies.

 Some of the not so good broodies are:

• Leghorn
• Hybrids - most hybrid breeds have had the broodiness bred out of them, to increase egg prodution.
•  Lakenvelder
• Campine
• Welsummer
• Hamburgh
• Rhode Island Red

Chickens: My bantams!

Nutmeg my Bufflaced Wyandotte Bantam.
Credit: birdbrain99 (Author)

Well you've probably seen my four large fowl hens, but three weeks ago today I got two bantams.  I haven't got many stories about them yet only having had them a few weeks. However, I can give you their main characters :)

My Buff laced Wyandotte Bantam, Meggie (short for Nutmeg).
Credit: birdbrain99 (Author).

Nutmeg is my Buff-laced Wyandotte Bantam, and is a shy little thing but quite jumpy. It took her a while to get used to me (about a week) but will now happily feed out of my hand. She has just gone broody (*Update*: I've written about that here.) In the first photo her wing is held in a strange position; don't worry! She was preening when I took the photo so it's quite normal:)

Pepper, my Barred Wyandotte bantam.
Credit: birdbrain99 (Author)

Pepper is my Barred Wyandotte Bantam and is from show stock. She did bully Nutmeg a bit at first but once the pecking order was established they get on fine. She loves to perch and comes running when you enter their area. Luckily, she has shown no signs of going broody.. fingers crossed!

Pepper scratching around.
Credit: birdbrain99 (Author).

What are bantams?

Bantams are like miniature chickens. You can get true bantams and miniatures of the large fowl breeds. Bantams are just small chickens. They do take up less space but if at all possible give them as much as the large fowl because most are very active. Bantams lay smaller eggs, but eat less and are great with children too. The smallest true bantam is the Dutch Bantam. My hens are both wyandottes, so not true bantams because you get them in large form also. Other true bantams include the Japanese Bantam, Rosecomb, Belgian bantams (Barbu d'anvers, Barbu d'Uccles, Barbu d'watermael and Barbu d'grubbe) Sebright and Pekin.

Dutch Bantam pullet. The smallest true bantam breed.
Credit: Laura Haggarty Permission: CC-BY-SA 3.0
 via Wikimedia Commons

Stories or Problems: Crop Impaction

Chicken digestive system showing crop.
Credit: Sunshineconnelly Permission: CC-BY-3.0
via Wikimedia Commons

Daffy got crop impaction earlier this year. This means that she got some grass stuck in her crop, creating a blockage so that no food can get through. The crop is where the food is stored before going into the gizzard, which is like a muscular "sack" where the food gets ground up. You can feel the crop under the feathers.

Look for: Your bird may do strange neck movements, look tired or dull, stop laying, or become thin. They are likely also to stop eating as much.
 These are all signs but they may not show any of them, or they could be caused by something else. The safest way to know is to check all your birds regularly. Feel the crop and if it feels hard. Check the next morning as by this time if they have't got it they should have digested all their food. If the crop is empty then it is ok, but if it is still full please follow the advice below..

Treatment: Pour a couple of teaspoons of olive-oil down the bird's throat, and massage the crop gently to loosen it up. Hold the bird upside down by the legs and again massage the contents of the crop out. Be careful not to choke her/him! It is best if you can hold the bird's bill open also. The contents should look a little like sick. If you manage to get most of it out and loosen up the contents still inside then you may have solved the problem. Check the next morning straight when you let them out of the coop (take out any food inside the coop so that there is nothing to eat in the early morning/night. If the crop feels empty when you feel it you can be quite sure that it is sorted. If not you will need to repeat the process. If after a few days of this there is no sign of it clearing up you should take them to the vet immediately as the bird will starve to death.

Prevention: Do not use long straw or hay in the coop or run, but chopped is fine. If they have access to grass keep it as short as possible. Do not let them eat string (which they will do!).


I first noticed that Daffy had crop impaction when she was doing strange neck movements (I can't describe them, but you'll notice anything odd). I checked her crop and it was hard, so I did everything mentioned in the treatment section above: massaged, tipped her upside down, gave her olive oil... none of it worked. She stopped laying. She got thinner and thinner. At last I phoned the vet. He confirmed that she had crop impaction and did basically the same thing as I did. He even tried flushing it out with water. After two visits back to the vet there was nothing for it but to do the operation. I hadn't realised this was possible. We took Daffy in early and left her with him. I couldn't concentrate on anything all day.. He hadn't done the operation before, and there was a good chance she wouldn't make it through anyway. I really thought I'd lost her. Then, in the afternoon we got a telephone call. She had made it! We went straight away to pick her up. She looked a little stunned but otherwise fine. When we got her back she just ATE, then slept. She was kept in the conservatory for a few days before going back with the others. She has now fully recovered and is again acting normally. :)

Chickens: My Large Fowl

Just thought I'd post some pics of my chickens. I have four large fowl/standard hens.
The first photo is my Light Sussex hen called Bonnie. She's often under your feet, and I've nearly stood on her before! She is happy to be held and stroked and will come running when she is called. For some reason she has never really taken to perching at night and seems to much prefer to sleep in the nestbox! In the second photo below she is being naughty and drinking out of a bucket for collecting rain water. A metre away is their actually drinker, but she seems to know what she is not meant to do... because she does it!! There'll be many more stories about her in other posts because it would take way too much space to write them all here now!

Teazle is anther of my first hens (as was Bonnie), but unlike Bonnie she not very tame, although once I've managed to catch her she will usually stay calm while you hold her. She is a Welsummer. She really doesn't like new people, so when my friends/family come to see the hens she gets quite upset! I find this very strange, but then she is quite a strange hen! She also doesn't like wind. Apart from these things, she lays well and the eggs are - mostly - a lovely dark brown. She is always looking after herself, despite having a growth problem with her beak. This  means she finds it slightly more difficult to eat, though she can do it. The upper mandible (top part of beak) hardly grows at all, and the end of it is a funny shape. Also the sides of her beak grow at an alarming rate and have to be clipped off regularly. On this photo it is difficult to see the beak problem because of the angle and also it has been clipped recently, making it look nearly normal.

My Welsummer, Teazel. 
Credit: birdbrain99 (Author)

Last April (2012) I got two more hens, not long before Dido, my other first Light Sussex and Bonnie's sister, died. I bought them from an auction which can be a little risky as you haven't much idea of who owns them, what conditions they have come from, etc. as often as not you also don't know how old the bird is and, occasionally, what breed it is.
 This was the case with Daffodil and Blackbird. They were obviously mixed breeds, but I had no idea what breeds they had in them then, or even if they were still laying. The only information I had was that they were being sold with the title: "two broodies". See this article for information on broodies. Well, I've never had anything of the sort from them! I have at last found out that Daffy (I hardly ever call her Daffodil) is a Cream Legbar crossed with a White Leghorn. 
She lays beautiful blue eggs and acts like a parrot (sits on your arm etc.), is quite bossy and will willingly peck the others if they are in the way! She is a skinny little thing and had to have an operation (*Update:* I've written about that here).  

My mix breed hen, Daffy.
Credit: birdbrain99 (Author).

My Leghor x Legbar mix, Daffodil, resting (which she hardly ever does..)
Credit: birdbrain99 (Author).

Birdie (short for Blackbird) is calm and  obviously quite an old bird. She loves to sleep and dustbathe and preen (keeps herself even tidier than Teazle!). I have found her many times sleeping on the roof of the coop (hen house) at night when she should be inside it! Strangely, she is my only hen which eats the suet pellets meant for thrushes (another reason I called her Blackbird). She can fly better than the others despite being a big bird. She is very unusual-looking and very beautiful.

My other mix breed hen,Birdie.
Credit: birdbrain99 (Author)