Chicken Care: Feed

One of the most important aspects of responsible chicken keeping is clean, fresh food and water.

There are many different feed types, and they all have their advantages and disadvantages. I'll list as many as I can here, but you may want to do further research elsewhere. The following feeds are the most commonly found and popular, and I believe you can find them in both the UK and US, if not other countries too.

Bonnie and Daffy help  themselves to pellets.
Credit: birdbrain99 (author)

Pellets - Probably the most popular feed, I use this for my birds. It should contain at least 16% protein for healthy, laying hens. Layer's Pellets provide most of the essential ingredients to keep your hens healthy whilst laying. Layer's Pellets should only be used after 18-25 weeks of age, or when the first egg is laid. Before that, Grower's pellets should be given. You should not feed grower's pellets to laying birds, either. If you have cocks and hens, layer's pellets are fine to feed to all of them.

Mash - This is quite a popular option too. Basically it is the same as pellets, but it has not been compressed into pellets. It is finely ground into lots of bits or a powder. If you don't have much space for your chickens, this will stop them getting quite so bored as it takes longer to eat than the same amount of pellets. However, I don't feed it often to my hens because of a beak problem one has. She finds pellets easier to eat.
You can mix mash with a little water to make a kind of paste but if you do you will need to change it a couple of times a day so that it doesn't go sour. My hens adore it though, so I just give it as a healthy treat sometimes! You can leave it dry, but depending on how fine it is the chickens may be able to pick out their best bits.

Mixed corn (also known as "Scratch") is a great treat.
Credit: birdbrain99 (Author)

Mixed Corn - This is best not fed as their main feed, but it can be given in small quantities scattered on the
ground or in straw where the chickens will be able to
scratch around for it, keeping them active and preventing them from becoming bored. I tried mixing it in with the chickens' pellets,  but they just chucked all the pellets out of the hopper, so I was basically feeding them corn and wasting a lot of good food! So it is best to choose another feed and just use corn as a supplementary feed.

Oats - These must not contribute a main part in you chickens' diet as oats have hardly any nutritional value and your birds can run fat. I only feed as a very occasional treat and in the morning in winter when I scatter some down with the corn when the birds need the extra energy to keep warm.

Chick Crumbs - It is especially formulated for chicks and should not be fed after this stage.

Extras - Your hens will enjoy kitchen scraps, but this shouldn't be a main part in their diet. Make sure there is not a high sugar or salt content. They will love lettuce and salads but if you notice that their droppings look runny they could be eating too much greens or other foods so limit these, and if you notice that a certain food is having a negative effect on your chickens' health stop feeding it. There are many lists available on safe foods for chickens on the internet and in books, so please do your research before feeding. This article is a great starting point! As a rule, don't feed chicken scraps that are mouldy, off, or you wouldn't be ok about eating yourself.
If your hens are not free range then they will enjoy a bit of grass just make sure you cut it very small as it can cause Crop Impaction. It is advised not to feed grass cuttings from petrol lawn mowers.

Grit - This is not strictly a "feed", but should always be available. They use grit in their digestive system to help grind up the food. Oyster Shell grit should also be available, as it is an important source of calcium. You can by these online or at poultry/farm shops. If your hens are free-range they are unlikely to need normal grit, as they will probably find enough around, but Oyster Shell grit should still be provided.

How much will a chicken eat a day?
The average hen will eat about 110 - 150 grams a day, but it depends very much on the breed, where they live, the season, etc.

How often do I need to clean the feeder, and what do I use?
Clean out the feed hopper/trough immediately if it gets soiled or you notice any algae or mould.  If not, every month or so. Use a safe poultry disinfect, and follow the instructions on the label carefully. Otherwise, you can use an ecological washing up liquid and rinse well.

Where should the feed be placed, and when should I feed the chickens?
The hopper should be placed in a dry, sheltered and light area, where the chickens can access it easily. It is best if they have their main feed available at all times, but treats, corn, etc. can be given when you like (as long as it's not enough to fill them, preventing them from eating their main feed) and as long as you've established a good routine.

Hand feeding is one of the best ways to tame chickens!
Credit: birdbrain99 (Author)

• Do not use feed after the best before end date.

• Store the chicken feed in a cool, dry place.

My hens relaxing in the Summer Sunshine!

Although a chilly start to the year, June has brought warmth and Sun! Here's a video of them enjoying the Summer days:D Bonnie (my Light Sussex) even tucks her head under her wing, she is so relaxed!

Note: Best not to view full screen because it is very pixelated!

Chickens: Top 5 best egg-laying pure breeds

If you are looking for ideas on which chicken breeds are best for you, one of the first questions you should ask yourself is, "do I want chickens for eggs, meat, pets or some other reason (showing, breeding, etc.)?"
If you are looking for eggs, then I have put together a list of five pure breeds that might be right for you. Please remember, these do not include Hybrids, which often lay more eggs, but have a shorter life span and don't have such a wide range of colours. This is only pointing out the five best pure breeds. I haven't written an article about the best hybrid egg-laying breeds yet.

Austrolorp hen.
Credit:  Jason buildakicker Permission: CC BY-NC-SA 2.0

Austrolorp

Eggs: young hens will lay an average of 200 eggs year, but a hen was recorded in Australia and managed to lay 364 eggs in 365 days! The eggs are light brown in colour.

Personality: A generally docile, tame breed, often happy to be handled and curious. Good mother and broody.

Care: They are very easy to keep, and love to forage but happy enough if kept busy in relative confinement.

Rhode Island Red hens.
Credit: Sammmydavisdog Permission: CC BY 2.0

Rhode Island Red                                                 

Eggs: An average of 200 large brown eggs a year.

Personality: Calm, easy to tame birds, they make an ideal backyard chicken!

Care: Very easy to keep and are adaptable. They are not good broodies but are hardy.

White Leghorn.
Credit: Lauredhel Permission: CC BY-NC-ND 2.0

Leghorn

Eggs: 200 + white eggs a year, depending on strain. Utility strains (particularly the White leghorn) lay more. The white leghorn is often used in the US in battery farms.

Personality: They are a Mediterranean breed so are flighty and excitable but some can be tamed and have hilarious characters if you manage it!

Care: Keep an eye on their combs in winter as they can get frostbite. They are good fliers.

Speckled Sussex.
Credit:Shooting Chris Permission: CC BY-NC 2.0

Sussex

Eggs: Good stock can lay 200-220 eggs in a year, but some sources may lay less.

Personality: Curious, calm, and friendly, this bird is ideal for a small backyard flock and pets.

Care: Good broodies, and tolerate low temperatures. They can be kept confined but love to free-range or have a large run. Otherwise, they are very easy to keep.

Silver Laced Wyandotte hen.
Credit: cskk Permission: CC BY-NC-ND 2.0

Wyandotte

Eggs: Hens lay 200 or more eggs in their first year, and the Sliver-laced variety is thought to be best layer.

Personality: Are happy in confinement or free-range, they are easy to tame and docile birds.

Care: Hardy birds, suited to most climates. Their small rose-comb makes them less susceptible to bullying and frostbite.