Friday 24 May 2013

Chicken Care: Choosing a Chicken Coop

For happy, healthy chickens it is very important to have a good house for them. This is where they will roost at night and lay their eggs.
My first coop made of recycled wood. 
Credit: birdbrain99


If you follow the points below when building, converting or buying a coop, there is little that can go wrong:

  • Draught-free: Not only will a draught chill them, risking disease, in the winter months frostbite to the comb may become apparent due to cold, draughty conditions.
  • Spacious: Over-crowding can cause so many problems, and your birds may get injured. The coop will also get dirty faster. As a guide line, if you end up buying your coop please check the specification of how  many birds it can fit, and then take away 1 or 2 birds per 4, as the companies often work on smaller breeds or bantams (other chicken keepers recommend this. my own experience: I bought a coop online, it said it could fit 8 birds in, but I've never had more than five in it as there wasn't space on the perches and any more chickens would have had to sleep in the nestbox!)
  • Good ventilation: Despite the fact that I noted above not to have a draughty coop, some ventilation is a must. The best thing would be to have a small wire grid or a few holes just above where the chickens' heads will be whilst they are on the perch, or at the highest point where the roof meets the sides as this is where most of the foul air will gather.
  • Dry: There should be no way for water to get in, or condensation to build up: if you see condensation, more ventilation is required. The coop should not get damp either. This last problem can be prevented if the coop is raised off the ground.
  • Easy access: This includes both you and the hens. You will need to be able to access the coop for cleaning,collecting eggs and checking on the birds.
  • Easy to clean: Most things in the coop - such as the perches - should preferably be removable so that the coop can be maintained responsibly. There should be a large, secure access door to clean the main coop.
  • Secure and Predator Proof: There should be some way of locking both the human and chickens access doors, even if it is just a simple hook or bolt. The coop must also be predator proof, or you may find just a pile of feathers in the morning!
  • Insulated: This is not necessary - most coops aren't insulated - but if it is at all possible, particularly if you live in cold climates, it would be favourable.


Buying a coop.

There are a wide range of different coops on the market. Which one you choose in the end is up to you. However, your choice should be based primarily on the health and well-being of the birds. Of course, it's great if you can get a coop which is also pretty! It may be a much cheaper option to make your coop at home, and it can also be exactly how you want it then too. However, if you're not very handy, or don't have the time, a ready-made coop is a great option.


Converting  Existing Buildings

Have you already got a shed or out-building? Well, it may be a lot cheaper and convenient if you could just turn that into a chicken house! Most building floors are suitable, such as wood, brick or tiles, but do be aware that if you have a soil floor you will need to think carefully about predator-proofing, damp and cleaning. Just follow the points above, and there are unlikely to be any difficulties.

Building your own.

Another option is to build your own. My first coop was made of old pallet pieces that we collected from saw mills and recycling centres - completely free! If you don't want to design it all yourself, just search around and you can get plans and measurements of other people's coops, and all you have to do is nail the wood together!


 Left: Nest boxes, accessible from outside and with removable wall for cleaning.

Right: inside showing perch, window and nestboxes. 



Plastic, wood or something else?

You may have heard of a relatively new chicken coop called an 'Eglu'. It is a popular option in recent years, made of plastic. Many people think they are the best coops, and they are easy to clean, but some of the information from the company who sell them is misleading, and they are very small and without a proper perch or nest box. However, they do have an advantage because they are made of plastic so there are no crevices, slits, etc. in which Red Mite can hide (Check out this article). There is also the environmental issue. Plastic lasts forever, creating more litter where as responsibly-sourced wood does not. Many people do think they're easy to use, though.
There are also other plastic coops, and even ones made out of recycled materials which could be another option.
If you are planning on a more traditional look, made of wood, you might find it useful to place some lino or something similar on the floor for extra-easy cleaning. Check regularly for mites, and treat the wood with a pet-safe wood treatment.

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